A necessary first step prior to writing My Calling was to gain an understanding of pilgrimages, I bean this search with no knowledge, with no comprehension as I had been an atheist my for most of my life. Readers may be in a similar situation so decided this would enlighten all.
The Two Holy Mosques are magnets for pilgrims.
First, let us define what a pilgrimage is, and why the faithful undertake the often arduous trip. Google describes the process in the following manner. “A pilgrimage is a sacred journey, undertaken for a spiritual purpose. Pilgrims are different from tourists: they travel for spiritual reasons, not just to relax or for fun. Pilgrimage is a search for meaning, purpose, values or truth.” I see pilgrimages as jump start for a believer’s faith. One thinks of jump starting a car but used in this context it means to start or improve something more quickly by giving it extra help.
The Islamic Faith both requires, and encourages, special pilgrimages. The Hajj is one of the five pillars of Islam, and all able-bodied Muslims are required to perform it once in their lifetime. The Hajj is seen as a chance to wipe clean past sins and start afresh.
How can pilgrimages change your life? What is the possible expectation of all of these people I have observed during my long stay in Medina; a shorter stay in Mecca. . It is said that by seeing God, the pilgrim unravels the bonds of excess attachment to earthly concerns to center on the singular purpose of the journey. This single-mindedness frees one from the worries of daily life and allows the believer to be wholly present to God in all things. The purpose of a pilgrimage is to open our eyes, and for Muslims, their hearts.
This is from Wikipedia. “Mecca is the required for Muslims. Where it all began, but most importantly the Ka’ba , the house that Abraham built, is the holiest sight in Islam. Since Abraham built al-Ka’ba and called for Hajj 5,000 years ago, Its doors have been of interest to kings and rulers throughout the history of Mecca. Historians say that when it was first built, the Kaaba had no door or roof and was simply made of walls.”
This also from Wikipedia: “Both Hajj and Umrah are Islamic pilgrimages, but they differ in terms of their significance and the manner in which they are practiced.[2] Hajj is regarded as one of the five pillars of Islam, making it mandatory for every Muslim to undertake it at least once in their lifetime, as long as they possess the physical ability and financial means to do so. Although both Hajj and Umrah involve shared rituals, Umrah can be completed in just a few hours, whereas Hajj is a more time-consuming journey that encompasses a greater number of rituals. Additionally, the pilgrimage of Hajj takes place during specific days within a designated Islamic month while Umrah can be performed at any time throughout the year. Medina has become, in a way, an enhancement, for both Hajj and Umrah pilgrims.”
I definitely had the inside track to observe what was going on. (Inside track is an advantageous position) Being somewhat a permanent fixture in the Oberio Hotel housed in a unique place to watch the comings and goings of vast numbers of pilgrims. I over the course of months observed probably hundreds, if not thousands – streaming in on every mode of conveyance, most frequently tour buses, but also vans and RVs, private cars and limousines. More affluent pilgrimages stay two or three days here – then off to Mecca. Or they have first visited Mecca and then come to Medina. On my December 2022 Umrah I first visited Mecca, then Medina for only two short days. It was not nearly enough time there so I returned, incredibly blessed to be there.My return was almost demanded by a photograph taken December 11, 2022 in order to unravel the story behind it The photograph and story behind it will appear again under the banner The Photo.
I was able to reside in a very posh hotel nearby hotel in my solitary room. That was not the living conditions of many less affluent tour groups. They apparently sleep eight in a room, they are loaded on a tour bus, dumped off at the Prophet’s Mosque, picked up at the end the day, where they will do it all again – the next day. They are fed at the Prophet’s Mosque. They sleep on the prayer rugs provided, both inside and out. No doubt they are exhausted. These pilgrims come from far away countries, are not flying business class where beds and seclusion allowing sleep. They arrive to massive confusion, with hotel rooms randomly assigned. Could you possibly imagine the snoring, the interruptions, the smells, the strain on bathroom facilities of eight women in one room? It probably resembles Dante’s Inferno. They are most probably awakened in the middle of the night so they can arrive on time for fajr prayer.
Living conditions for tour groups at this five star hotel are certainly a cut above. ( A cut above means admirable, exceptional, preferable) However, the conditions are still not conducive to worship, quiet contemplation in the presence of Allah (SWT). Tour group pilgrims are awakened to Fajr prayer at the Prophet’s Mosque, walk the few steps back to enjoy breakfast buffet and then retire to their room, sleeping until Dhuhr prayer. Back to the harem, with some free time in the afternoon. The buffet serves an ample meal after their obligatory prayers. They are never alone, solitary worship never experienced, eating (and perhaps even solitary loo trips) are unknown.
Why do these people go on pilgrimages? It if extremely stressful, does not sound like a lot of un to me. Nor is it conducive to worship – spending time with Allah (SWT). The Creator seems to be the last thing on the mind of even these, the affluent tour group members.
I was not altogether aware of the circumstances of ‘masses’ at the Prophet’s Mosque, in the beginning go my stay. Would wonder, often out loud: “Why are you so unhappy, not smiling? You are in Medina, the place so treasured by our Prophet (Peace be Upon Him)? He words: “O Allah! Make Al-Madinah beloved to us, as we love Makkah – or more”
Later I was to learn why the misery, hearing of the conditions under which they lived and attempted to worship, the working conditions of those employed within this hallowed place, even the rampant thievery. For example, shoes must be removed, For some reason nothing is protected or guarded, lockers are not provided. Visitors for the day, their shoes missing, not warted, would emerge bare footed and are forced to buy footwear at an exorbitant cost in the stores surrounds the Mosque. Learning all of this during my October 1- to December 23, 2023 residency wrote: ‘I live next door to the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina. Chaos and confusion, disorganization and mismanagement reign. It is unbelievable, it is a travesty and a desecration but the truth of conditions are well kept secret. Well up until now.”
No one wants to keep reading a story, an actually real life story, which has an unhappy ending. I shall give you now a happy, coupled with a rather surprising ending.
One morning six days before I was to live Medina, (most likely forever) I was strolling about in the cool early morning temperatures. The day before had been rudely accosted by a guard who forced me to prove I was a Muslim. (The story of that shall appear later) I was resting learning against one of the movable dividers when man, sweeping up after the messy pilgrims, suddenly brought me to a collapsable stool to sit on. Wanting to preserve my thinking, having no cinematographer I filmed a series of three selfies. Posted on You Tube and there for your viewing pleasure. One version received 782 views. Go to the right hand corner of the blog, there are four lines, poke the lines. A menu emerges. Go to YouTube. Three reels are on the first page. Listen. It will not take very long. The reels are repeated with others. – it is there you shall see the one that got 782 views.
I continue to write of this with trepidation (a feeling of fear or agitation about something that may happen). I am filled with apprehension, dread,, foreboding, heebie-jeebies and `cold feet. In times of such dismay and apprehension When troubled I often turn to the Quran, randomly seeking a page to find guidance. This on the page opened. “Then there are the who built a mosque to cause harm, to spread apostasy and disunity among the believers – as, an outpost for those who from the outset warred on God, and His Messenger. They swear, ‘Our intentions were nothing but good but God bears witness that they are lying. Do not set foot in it. Only a house of worship founded from the very first day upon piety,, is worth of your setting forth therein, In it are men who love to be purified and God loves those who purify themselves. Who is better, he who founds his building on the fear of God and his good pleasure or he who builds on the brink of a crumbling precipice, so that his house is ready to fall with him into the Fire of Hell? God does not guide the wrongdoers; the building they have built will be a source of deep disquiet in their hearts, are cut to pieces. God his all knowing and all wise. (9: 107-110). Reading this left me with a feeling of calm and equanimity.
Photographs are ones taken of the Prophet’s Mosque. Two of three show sleeping pilgrims within the Mosque.