The next chapter found within The Heart of Makkah is Hajj and Umrah -Acts of Incomparable Devotion. The verse from the Quran begins the chapter: “Pilgrims thereto is a duty Men owe to God, Those can afford the Journey.” – Quran 3.97
“In the footsteps of prophets of bygone times, millions of Muslims from across the globe regularly travel to Makkah on the Hajj or Umrah pilgrimages – acts of incomparable devotion. Out of the two pilgrimages the Hajj- the greatest pilgrimage – is performed annually and involves pilgrims visiting Makkah and the nearby Hajj sites of Mina, Muzdalifah and Arafat. Several million people of different colors, ethnicities and nationalities converge together in acts of worship for the pilgrimage that is carried out in unison.”
I confess to knowing very little, practically nothing, about the Hajj in December of 2022. Therefor when I was exposed to the wide, then vacant, boulevards of Arafat, then learning of the influx of people that would descend, I was astounded also to see the hospitals public buildings, public transit all vacant to be staffed and occupied during Hajj. Looking at the photographs in the book adds to my wonder. It is educational in many ways. For example, in prior times when reading and writing about pilgrimages, learned of the collapse of the Jamarat Bridge – the crowd and stampedes caused a loss of lives and many injuries. What I did not know is this – the Saudi government embarked upon a massive development project costing billions of Saudi riyals. The completed project is pictured , it includes security towers and and 100 high-tech cameras to monitor crowd management. Most impressive!! There are photographs of the huge crowds, as well as individual pilgrims and tent cities. A picture is worth a thousand words – there is no other way to describe the scale, the immensity of it all.
Wikipedia again:
A picture is worth a thousand words” is an adage in multiple languages meaning that complex and sometimes multiple ideas[1] can be conveyed by a single still image, which conveys its meaning or essence more effectively than a mere verbal description.
During my visits here in Saudi Arabia I heard many stories of the effect of the coronavirus, with its restrictions, on the Hajj and on Makkah. The effects are still being felt, the age restrictions finally lifted, there are mandatory vaccinations based on the outbreak of other illnesses in the past. The safety of pilgrims is upmost in the minds of the Saudi Government, that is abundantly clear. As for me and the Hajj? My health will be a determining factor. At my age it is a determining factor for all of my worship. I do put in efforts to maintaining my mobility, religiously take prescribed medication, visit physicians regularly but do not have unrealistic expectations. There are some disadvantages to coming to the faith late in life. To people that say Age is just a number. I say: You must be joking! I am blessed to be eighty with the health I enjoy. In ten years it might well be all over.
But back to the book. More knowledge was obtained reading the chapter: Washing of the Kaaba. “You shall purify My house for those who visit, those who live there, and those who bow and prostrate.” Quran 2:125.
“The building is opened twice a year for the washing ceremony which takes place roughly thirty days before the start of the month of Ramadan and thirty days before the start of Hajj.”
The ritual is described, washing is done with simple brooms using a mixture of Zamzam Well and rosewater. Photographs show members of Royalty, over the years, leaving the washing ceremony, often kissing the black stone. King Fahd (1982-2005) is pictured in a black and white photograph.
I have a special, shall we say, affinity for King Fahd. Affinity is a a spontaneous or natural liking or sympathy for someone or something. I do have a fellow feeling for, and understanding of, and feel harmony for King Fahd because I sat at his desk in the Riyadh National Library. A most unusual and most gratifying experience. I was at the National Library, doing preliminary research, speaking to the extremely knowledgable and helpful staff when I was graciously invited to ‘inner sanctum’. Did not ask, it was offered as a privilege. II have not ‘advertised’ this privilege on social media, on Instagram or Facebook realizing it was special and did not want the gracious staff to be bothered by tourists thinking it was a usual occurrence. I have since learned, (from an unreliable source) that it is now forbidden for anyone to be allowed that privilege, to sit at the desk of King Fahd. I will attach the photo, taken on July 11, 2023 on to this blog.
The next chapter in the book: Making of the Kiswah begins with this verse from the Quran: “And from whatever place you come forth, turn your face toward the Holy Mosque. Indeed this is the truth from your Lord. – Quran 2:149. We learn that the present cost of making the Kiswah amounts to 17 million Saudi Royals. “The cover is 658 square meters and is made of 670 kilograms of silk, the embroidery contains 115 kilograms of gold thread. It consists of 47 pieces of cloth – each piece of 14 meters long and 101 centimeters wide. “ Faithful readers will will have seen photographs and are aware that, during my Umrah, two women guides took me on a tour of Mecca which included a sumptuous lunch and a tour of the factory where the Kiswah was made. I do have a special infinity for the factory and the workers for the following reason. .
The informative guided tour with its hands-on experience ended. I was leaving, waving goodbye to everyone, thanking them for their kindness; when a young man came rushing toward me, reached out, handing me a ring fashioned from the gold threads used for embroidery. I squealed in delight, managing an Arabic thank you (starts with a c). Waving, took another step to leave when suddenly another young man rushed toward me – in his hand were strands of gold thread – not yet fashioned into a ring. My guides, their guides, everyone was amazed at these expressions of care and generosity. Needless to say, so was!I. Never will I forget this moment. Therefore I have a special affinity for the people that work at the factory, the factory and the Kiswah. .
So many treasured experiences which I have had, explains the special affinity I have for Saudi Arabia. A closeness to, a liking for, a fellow feeling for, a penchant for. So it was with great relief to read on Instagram Saudi Arabia is offering refugees from neighboring countries a waiver of government fees and a place to stay for four years. Instagram is not exactly a reliable source of such information however. There was no information about how to apply for this status, and furthermore I would have to convince the powers-that-be that Canada and the USA are neighboring countries. Not impossible, I suppose, if given the opportunity. Spoke of this to a Saudi man, receiving this response.
He: It is not just possible but doable. You’re not neighborly but one of us.
Me: Not sure what that meant. I guess I could give it a try. I could perhaps convince someone that Canada is right next door but I have no idea where to go and make the argument. I am not going to worry about this until the end of Ramadan.
Except for the one day off, I have been compliant with the restrictions imposed by Ramadan. But it is best not to tempt fate. You take a silly risk to tempt providence. If one is tempting or providence fate, they are worried that their actions or inactions may cause the fortuity they have had so far to end. Other words to use are playing with fire, living dangerously, sticking one’s neck out or pushing one’s luck.
By definition, fate-tempting actions have no real causal impact on the outcome in question; For example, bringing or leaving an umbrella does not influence whether it will rain. However, the actions can effect well-being in such an unpredictable way. If it does rain, you blame your forgotten umbrella – when that had nothing to do with the rain itself.
Such a complicated concept but I have been complying – not testing fate by being nowhere near food between the hours of sunrise and sunset. An event occurred, by surprise and out of my control. While in the lobby staff members ran up to me with precious gifts in hand. A chef’s hat and a coffee mug emblazoned with the hotel’s logo. I was SO happy. Proudly wore the chef’s hat to Iftar dinner, reporting for duty to the Executive Chef. (My services were politely refused). My Bahrain Ritz Carlton’s chef’s hat was returned as well.
Me: What to do? I have two chef’s hats and only one head.
They: Grow another head.
Me: Not during Ramadan. There is not enough food and coffee intake for my one head.
Countless gifts – it is no wonder that I love Saudi Arabia.
Set a chef’s hat self to my WhatsApp friends
Noor: Wow. A Chef’s hat. Hah!
Me: I am ready to come and cook for you. Hahaha
Noor: (Emojis of dancing ladies). I like that so much.
Another exchange.
Me: Me in the chef’s hat. I am popular for sure. Too popular. But under control. Need no chaperone. Thank you very much.
He: Very nice especially the writing behind the phone. That hat is something else. No doubt popular. No chaperone needed/under control. I doubt it
Me: Phone cover from Ithra. You are making me laugh. Emailed my blog UK guy telling him of my seclusion in the home, saying I felt like a nun. But this is not a convent and fighting off men in my weakened condition is proving difficult. It does sum up the situation perfectly.
Another exchange.
Me: Finally took my own photo. Such independence.
He: Yeah! It looks good.
Me: Agreed. Haha
Photos shall be a rather unusual combination. The outside of the Kiswah factory. One or two sunsets. Sunsets my favorite, particularly as it signals FOOD and COFFEE. The photograph of me at the desk of King Fahd in the Riyadh National Library. Selfie of Me in a Chef’s Hat.
I do lead a complicated, involved, intricate, impenetrable, Byzantine existence – no doubt about that.
