My December 9, 2023 blog spoke of an experience listening to the Call to Prayer while dining at the Kyoto Japanese Restaurant. My companion held my hand while I wept at the wonder of it all. I have, three days later, two more, actually far more meaningful experiences.
You shall hear more about another absolute privilege enjoyed at the Medina Oberio Hotel, briefly only for this purpose. There is a Health Club, staffed by a fabulous trainer, whose name is Mona. I laughingly say, I am moaning with Mona. The joy of it all is this: she is not just my trainer. Yesterday, the call to prayer echoed in the gym. She gently told me of custom in Saudi Arabia.
She: We repeat the words of the call to prayer, while it is being made.
Me: That is fascinating! I shall do that, even if I do not understand the meaning of the Arabic words. Slowly, guess I will learn.
We ‘practiced’ briefly.
Me: I cannot hear the call to prayer in my room but I will go in the hallway, sit on the floor, listen and repeat the words. Not really chanting because I cannot sing.
Woke this morning, determined to do this. A miracle occurred. Opened the door, no call to prayer, no nothing. I went to the window, found that it could open, unlike the window in 838. I opened it, and magic: the Call to Prayer. Do not have to get dressed, can open the window, purify myself, then pray in my room.
The Islamic Faith is intended to be a religion of ease, this is easy. It is an absolute blessing.
As was my intention, it is now time to start discovering the WHY of the conditions of the Prophet’s Mosque. In my struggle to understand, to find meaning in what I see as its desecration, decided that a starting point might be to understand pilgrimages. This has proven enlightening, as you shall soon see.
First, using Wikipedia, it is essential to define discretion. Desecration is the act of depriving something of its sacred character, or the disrespectful, contemptuous, or destructive treatment of that which is held to be sacred or holy by a group or individual. Some synonyms convey my meaning: sacrilege; degradation, dishonor, dishonoring, damaging. Antonyms can further understanding. These do further understanding: veneration; sanctification.
The Prophet’s Mosque is a magnet for pilgrims. First, let us define what a pilgrimage is, and why the faithful undertake the often arduous trip. Google describes the process in the following manner. A pilgrimage is a sacred journey, undertaken for a spiritual purpose. Pilgrims are different from tourists: they travel for spiritual reasons, not just to relax or for fun. Pilgrimage is a search for meaning, purpose, values or truth. I see pilgrimages as an attempt by Believers to jump start their faith. Jump start, is an idiom. It shall be explored later in this blog.
The Islamic Faith both requires and encourages special pilgrimages. The Hajj is one of the five pillars of Islam, and all able-bodied Muslims are required to perform it once in their lifetime. The Hajj is seen as a chance to wipe clean past sins and start afresh.
How can pilgrimages change your life? What is the possible expectation of all of these people I have observed during my stay in Medina. It is said that by seeing God, the pilgrim unravels the bonds of excess attachment to earthly concerns to center on the singular purpose of the journey. This single-mindedness frees one from the worries of daily life and allows the believer to be wholly present to God in all things. The purpose of a pilgrimage is to open our eyes, and for Muslims, their hearts.
Mecca is the required for Muslims. Where it all began, but most importantly the Ka’ba , the house that Abraham built, is the holiest sight in Islam. Since Abraham built al-Ka’ba and called for Hajj 5,000 years ago, Its doors have been of interest to kings and rulers throughout the history of Mecca. Historians say that when it was first built, the Kaaba had no door or roof and was simply made of walls.
This from Wikipedia
“Both Hajj and Umrah are Islamic pilgrimages, but they differ in terms of their significance and the manner in which they are practiced.[2] Hajj is regarded as one of the five pillars of Islam, making it mandatory for every Muslim to undertake it at least once in their lifetime, as long as they possess the physical ability and financial means to do so. Although both Hajj and Umrah involve shared rituals, Umrah can be completed in just a few hours, whereas Hajj is a more time-consuming journey that encompasses a greater number of rituals. Additionally, the pilgrimage of Hajj takes place during specific days within a designated Islamic month while Umrah can be performed at any time throughout the year. Medina has become, in a way, an enhancement, for both Hajj and Umrah pilgrims.”
I have been here in Medina for more than two months, housed in a unique place to watch the comings and goings of vast numbers of pilgrims. I have observed probably hundreds, if not thousands – streaming in on every mode of conveyance, most frequently tour buses, but also vans and RVs, private cars and limousines. More affluent pilgrimages stay two or three days here – then off to Mecca. Or they have first visited Mecca and then come here. At this time of year they are here in an Umrah. On my Umrah, a year ago, I first visited Mecca, then Medina for only two short days. It was not enough time in this precious place. That is why I am back, and so incredibly blessed to be here.
I am residing in a very posh hotel but have heard of the living conditions of many less affluent tour groups. They apparently sleep eight in a room, they are loaded on a tour bus, dumped off at the Prophet’s Mosque, picked up at the end the day, where they will do it all again – the next day. They are fed at the Prophet’s mosque. They sleep on the prayer rugs provided, both inside and out. No doubt they are exhausted. These people, some from far away countries, are not flying business class beds and seclusion allowing sleep. They arrive to massive confusion,
hotel rooms randomly assigned. Could you possibly imagine the snoring, the interruptions, the smells, the strain on bathroom facilities of eight women in one room? It probably resembles Dante’s Inferno. They are most probably awakened in the middle of the night so they can arrive on time for fajr prayer.
Living conditions for tour groups at this five star hotel are certainly a cut above. But the conditions are still not conducive to worship, quiet contemplation and the presence of Allah (SWT). Tour group pilgrims are awakened to Fajr prayer at the Prophet’s Mosque, walk the few steps back to enjoy breakfast buffet and then retire to their room, sleeping until Dhurh prayer. Back to the harem, with some free time in the afternoon. The buffet serves an ample meal after their obligatory prayers. They are never alone, solitary worship, eating (and perhaps even solitary loo trips) are unknown.
Why do people go on pilgrimages? It does not sound like a lot of fun to me. Nor is it conducive to worship – spending time with Allah (SWT). The Creator seems to be the last thing on the mind of even these, the affluent tour group members.
During my beginning Medina Days I wondered became total amazed at the misery , the sudued, distressed downtrodden appearance of the vast majority of the Medina pilgirms. I would often say vast throngs sprawling on carpets inside and outside the Mosque. .
Me: Why are you so unhappy? Here you are in Medina. The Prophet’s (PBUH) favorite place. He treasured Medina, when away, and Medina was in sight, he would prod his horse or camel to proceed at top speed.
It took me a long time – over two months to thoroughly appreciate, and pity the plight of the poor pilgrim.
The pilgrims come wanting to infuse energy into their faith. Just as one may reward an internship to a college student to jump start their career. They want to enliven their faith, electrify it If it were a business they would be doing something which will make the economy become more active or active or successful. Here is the real offense. Not only does it not work – but vast industries, money-making schemes arise around it. This has been going on since time immemorial.
Medina is being utterly destroyed in the process. Not all of Medina, not the entirety of Medina, only the Medina in the proximity of the Grand Mosque. It is possible to travel along the ring road to find the existing remnants of Medina so loved by the Prophet.
King Fahad Park is a treasure, it is home to a vast park, where families gather. The Medina Museum with its special exhibit inspires, it glorifies the artist’s ingenuity inspired by their reverent embracing of the faith.
Blogs describing the present conditions found in the Prophet’s Mosque will be in direct contrast with photographs, accompanied by stories of the artists and their inspiration which are found in the Paths of the Soul Exhibition book, gifted to me by the exhibition staff.
One striking exhibit greets the visitor upon arrival. The artist Sara Ouhaddou’s An-Nur. An-Nur is part of a long-term project to revisit the dying art of stained glass in Morocco. In her quest to reconstruct with past know-how and rewrite the movement of exchanges between North Africa and the Middle East….The circular glass -glass artwork combines an original antique handmade glass artifact, which dates back ti the eleventh century a comes from what was known at the time as the Great Syria, with Moorish glass from Spain, colored glass from India and industrial glass from China.
The photograph of An-Nur portrays exquisite lighting amplifying the work of art. Another photograph shows the cover of the gifted book.
